Actually, as you can see when it’s on in many comics, he’s got a decent set up.
I modify my lights to let me know if they are on and working properly (even if I can’t tell due to wet conditions). Sure, I could take my hand off the handlebar, and see if it’s on. However, I might need to keep my hands on the handlebars to maintain control in an emergency maneuver (I had one with a power on light showing it was on, while the bulb was burned out). By adding a fluorescent dot, I can easily tell at a glance.
Headlight
1/16″ Drill Bit
Hand Drill
1/16″ Blue or Green Fluorescent Rod (available at hobby shops)
Hobby Knife
Emery Board
Clear Blue or Green Hobby Paint
Carefully drill a 1/16″ hole in the shroud of the light in front of the lens.
Using the hobby knife, cut the fluorescent rod at a sharp angle (resembling a hypodermic needle).
Press the rod into the hole, from the top of the light until it extends past the end of the cut (if it’s too loose, a drop of CA glue can set it into place).
Cut the rod about 3/16″ above the top of the light. Clean up the cut with the emery board, then firmly press the rod flush with the top of the light using a hard flat surface. lastly, trim off the extra from the inside of the shroud, and you can tell if the light is on, or not. If the color is too bright (a problem I have with blue fluorescent rod (looks white)), use a drop of the hobby paint to darken it a little.
A better and much safer solution is to use “to see” lights instead of “be seen” lights. (If you have to put your hand in front of your light, or rely on some other indicator as described above, you’re using “be seen” lights.) A good “to see” bike headlight should be nearly as bright as a car headlight. LED and rechargeable battery technologies are sufficient advanced to provide substantial lighting for an hour or two in lightweight, compact packages. If external battery packs are utilized, much longer runtimes are available. Otherwise, swapping cells is quick and easy.
A better and much safer solution is to use “to see” lights instead of “be seen” lights. (If you have to put your hand in front of your light, or rely on some other indicator as described above, you’re using “be seen” lights.) A good “to see” bike headlight should be nearly as bright as a car headlight. LED and rechargeable battery technologies are sufficient advanced to provide substantial lighting for an hour or two in lightweight, compact packages. If external battery packs are utilized, much longer runtimes are available. Otherwise, swapping cells is quick and easy.
A better and much safer solution is to use “to see” lights instead of “be seen” lights. (If you have to put your hand in front of your light, or rely on some other indicator as described above, you’re using “be seen” lights.) A good “to see” bike headlight should be nearly as bright as a car headlight. LED and rechargeable battery technologies are sufficient advanced to provide substantial lighting for an hour or two in lightweight, compact packages. If external battery packs are utilized, much longer runtimes are available. Otherwise, swapping cells is quick and easy.
A better and much safer solution is to use “to see” lights instead of “be seen” lights. (If you have to put your hand in front of your light, or rely on some other indicator as described above, you’re using “be seen” lights.) A good “to see” bike headlight should be nearly as bright as a car headlight. LED and rechargeable battery technologies are sufficient advanced to provide substantial lighting for an hour or two in lightweight, compact packages. If external battery packs are utilized, much longer runtimes are available. Otherwise, swapping cells is quick and easy.
A better and much safer solution is to use “to see” lights instead of “be seen” lights. (If you have to put your hand in front of your light, or rely on some other indicator as described above, you’re using “be seen” lights.) A good “to see” bike headlight should be nearly as bright as a car headlight. LED and rechargeable battery technologies are sufficient advanced to provide substantial lighting for an hour or two in lightweight, compact packages. If external battery packs are utilized, much longer runtimes are available. Otherwise, swapping cells is quick and easy.
A better and much safer solution is to use “to see” lights instead of “be seen” lights. (If you have to put your hand in front of your light, or rely on some other indicator as described above, you’re using “be seen” lights.) A good “to see” bike headlight should be nearly as bright as a car headlight. LED and rechargeable battery technologies are sufficient advanced to provide substantial lighting for an hour or two in lightweight, compact packages. If external battery packs are utilized, much longer runtimes are available. Otherwise, swapping cells is quick and easy.
A better and much safer solution is to use “to see” lights instead of “be seen” lights. (If you have to put your hand in front of your light, or rely on some other indicator as described above, you’re using “be seen” lights.) A good “to see” bike headlight should be nearly as bright as a car headlight. LED and rechargeable battery technologies are sufficient advanced to provide substantial lighting for an hour or two in lightweight, compact packages. If external battery packs are utilized, much longer runtimes are available. Otherwise, swapping cells is quick and easy.
A better and much safer solution is to use “to see” lights instead of “be seen” lights. (If you have to put your hand in front of your light, or rely on some other indicator as described above, you’re using “be seen” lights.) A good “to see” bike headlight should be nearly as bright as a car headlight. LED and rechargeable battery technologies are sufficient advanced to provide substantial lighting for an hour or two in lightweight, compact packages. If external battery packs are utilized, much longer runtimes are available. Otherwise, swapping cells is quick and easy.
A better and much safer solution is to use “to see” lights instead of “be seen” lights. (If you have to put your hand in front of your light, or rely on some other indicator as described above, you’re using “be seen” lights.) A good “to see” bike headlight should be nearly as bright as a car headlight. LED and rechargeable battery technologies are sufficient advanced to provide substantial lighting for an hour or two in lightweight, compact packages. If external battery packs are utilized, much longer runtimes are available. Otherwise, swapping cells is quick and easy.
If you had some hub-dynamo in combination with sensor-lights you would not need to think about “click”.
When I enter an underpass lights go ON, when I lefe the underpass it goes out.
And there are LED-headlights, no carist can mistake for a firefly.
Knowing Yehuda, it’s probably just a firefly-in-a-jar anyway..
Actually, as you can see when it’s on in many comics, he’s got a decent set up.
I modify my lights to let me know if they are on and working properly (even if I can’t tell due to wet conditions). Sure, I could take my hand off the handlebar, and see if it’s on. However, I might need to keep my hands on the handlebars to maintain control in an emergency maneuver (I had one with a power on light showing it was on, while the bulb was burned out). By adding a fluorescent dot, I can easily tell at a glance.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/ufobike/sets/72157630173708076
All you need is:
Headlight
1/16″ Drill Bit
Hand Drill
1/16″ Blue or Green Fluorescent Rod (available at hobby shops)
Hobby Knife
Emery Board
Clear Blue or Green Hobby Paint
Carefully drill a 1/16″ hole in the shroud of the light in front of the lens.
Using the hobby knife, cut the fluorescent rod at a sharp angle (resembling a hypodermic needle).
Press the rod into the hole, from the top of the light until it extends past the end of the cut (if it’s too loose, a drop of CA glue can set it into place).
Cut the rod about 3/16″ above the top of the light. Clean up the cut with the emery board, then firmly press the rod flush with the top of the light using a hard flat surface. lastly, trim off the extra from the inside of the shroud, and you can tell if the light is on, or not. If the color is too bright (a problem I have with blue fluorescent rod (looks white)), use a drop of the hobby paint to darken it a little.
If you have to put you hand in front of your light to see if it’s on then it isn’t bright enoufg. Get one like mine: http://youtu.be/ZepYDnuWcRE
A better and much safer solution is to use “to see” lights instead of “be seen” lights. (If you have to put your hand in front of your light, or rely on some other indicator as described above, you’re using “be seen” lights.) A good “to see” bike headlight should be nearly as bright as a car headlight. LED and rechargeable battery technologies are sufficient advanced to provide substantial lighting for an hour or two in lightweight, compact packages. If external battery packs are utilized, much longer runtimes are available. Otherwise, swapping cells is quick and easy.
A better and much safer solution is to use “to see” lights instead of “be seen” lights. (If you have to put your hand in front of your light, or rely on some other indicator as described above, you’re using “be seen” lights.) A good “to see” bike headlight should be nearly as bright as a car headlight. LED and rechargeable battery technologies are sufficient advanced to provide substantial lighting for an hour or two in lightweight, compact packages. If external battery packs are utilized, much longer runtimes are available. Otherwise, swapping cells is quick and easy.
A better and much safer solution is to use “to see” lights instead of “be seen” lights. (If you have to put your hand in front of your light, or rely on some other indicator as described above, you’re using “be seen” lights.) A good “to see” bike headlight should be nearly as bright as a car headlight. LED and rechargeable battery technologies are sufficient advanced to provide substantial lighting for an hour or two in lightweight, compact packages. If external battery packs are utilized, much longer runtimes are available. Otherwise, swapping cells is quick and easy.
A better and much safer solution is to use “to see” lights instead of “be seen” lights. (If you have to put your hand in front of your light, or rely on some other indicator as described above, you’re using “be seen” lights.) A good “to see” bike headlight should be nearly as bright as a car headlight. LED and rechargeable battery technologies are sufficient advanced to provide substantial lighting for an hour or two in lightweight, compact packages. If external battery packs are utilized, much longer runtimes are available. Otherwise, swapping cells is quick and easy.
A better and much safer solution is to use “to see” lights instead of “be seen” lights. (If you have to put your hand in front of your light, or rely on some other indicator as described above, you’re using “be seen” lights.) A good “to see” bike headlight should be nearly as bright as a car headlight. LED and rechargeable battery technologies are sufficient advanced to provide substantial lighting for an hour or two in lightweight, compact packages. If external battery packs are utilized, much longer runtimes are available. Otherwise, swapping cells is quick and easy.
A better and much safer solution is to use “to see” lights instead of “be seen” lights. (If you have to put your hand in front of your light, or rely on some other indicator as described above, you’re using “be seen” lights.) A good “to see” bike headlight should be nearly as bright as a car headlight. LED and rechargeable battery technologies are sufficient advanced to provide substantial lighting for an hour or two in lightweight, compact packages. If external battery packs are utilized, much longer runtimes are available. Otherwise, swapping cells is quick and easy.
A better and much safer solution is to use “to see” lights instead of “be seen” lights. (If you have to put your hand in front of your light, or rely on some other indicator as described above, you’re using “be seen” lights.) A good “to see” bike headlight should be nearly as bright as a car headlight. LED and rechargeable battery technologies are sufficient advanced to provide substantial lighting for an hour or two in lightweight, compact packages. If external battery packs are utilized, much longer runtimes are available. Otherwise, swapping cells is quick and easy.
A better and much safer solution is to use “to see” lights instead of “be seen” lights. (If you have to put your hand in front of your light, or rely on some other indicator as described above, you’re using “be seen” lights.) A good “to see” bike headlight should be nearly as bright as a car headlight. LED and rechargeable battery technologies are sufficient advanced to provide substantial lighting for an hour or two in lightweight, compact packages. If external battery packs are utilized, much longer runtimes are available. Otherwise, swapping cells is quick and easy.
A better and much safer solution is to use “to see” lights instead of “be seen” lights. (If you have to put your hand in front of your light, or rely on some other indicator as described above, you’re using “be seen” lights.) A good “to see” bike headlight should be nearly as bright as a car headlight. LED and rechargeable battery technologies are sufficient advanced to provide substantial lighting for an hour or two in lightweight, compact packages. If external battery packs are utilized, much longer runtimes are available. Otherwise, swapping cells is quick and easy.
Great modification K’Tesh. Thanks for sharing!
Great modification K’Tesh. Thanks for sharing!
Great modification K’Tesh. Thanks for sharing!
If you had some hub-dynamo in combination with sensor-lights you would not need to think about “click”.
When I enter an underpass lights go ON, when I lefe the underpass it goes out.
And there are LED-headlights, no carist can mistake for a firefly.
I have a dynamo light. I just leave the lights on all of the time.
Steve – me too. And I upgraded it from a halogen to a CREE LED: http://karlmccracken.sweat365.com/2012/03/06/more-on-the-headlamp-upgrade/
lights or no lights, day or night, I assume they can’t see me and operate accordingly unless otherwise is indicated.
The light sensor is just another gadget that can fail. LEDs and hub dynamos are so efficient that you might as well run them all the time.
It’s good to see the Van Sweringen again.
Its better to light one candle, than to curse the darkness….
There’s a classic Peanuts involving this quote, which ends with Lucy saying “Curse you stupid darkness!”
September 9, 1965:
http://www.gocomics.com/peanuts/1965/09/09
Well done
He needs Rock the Bike’s Down Low Glow…
He must be visiting Santa Cruz, home of the bike ninja!
Rick – login is even more broken – if all comments have been xferred to WordPress, when will the cut over occur?
It could be as early as next Monday, but I need to rebuild all of the membership features in the WordPress platform first…
I too am having login issues.
Can’t see “precious cargo” strip, is it a ninja strip?